14 January 2018

Feeding a RAW diet - how, what, where, why?

Ok - so late last year we fully committed to feeding our dogs and puppies a raw diet. We had always dabbled by feeding kibble and some meaty bones or chicken necks and frames... but on further research we decided that the effort (which is not much once you are organised) of going fully raw has fabulous benefit for you, me and most importantly, our Amalie dogs. The underlying facts about the pet food industry are worth reviewing in the documentary Petfooled



Fast facts

  • While dogs are omnivores (can eat a bit of everything) they have a preference for meat including organ meats
  • Raw diets don't have to be complicated
  • The nutritional and health benefits are worth the effort for your BFF
  • Don't mix fruit with raw as it can lead to fermentation and upset belly - but some fruit is  OK on its own as a treat.


This is a meal for a 4kg pup at 10 weeks
 (@8% body weight) when feeding 3 meals / day

Raw basics - whats in a raw diet?

  • fresh meat - 80%
  • raw meaty bones - 10%
  • organ meat - 10% (half of this being liver)
  • some veg (fruit can be fed as snacks but separately to meat please to avoid fermentation)
  • eggs
  • occasional grains are OK (try soaked oats)





When taking your pup home, for the first 2 weeks we recommend a commercially prepared raw diet. After pup has settled in, if you want to change, do so as we have guided you. Check commercial foods at "Pet Food Reviews" or make your own but ensure it is nutritionally balance. You'll find  a simple meal plan for puppies here. 


More about bones

They should never be cooked or baked as they can splinter and that is dangerous to your dog's mouth and gut. They need to be softer, chewable and therefore digestible. Try chicken frames, kangaroo tail, lamb necks or beef soup bones.

Those long leg bones (any weight bearing bones) look like great entertainers in that dogs can chew them for ages but they splinter, are hard and damage teeth and can't be easily digested. We do not recommend them - choose a "soft bone" only for puppies. 

Tip - have the butcher cut  larger bones like lamb necks into a daily size. Also consider removing some of the very rich marrow which can cause diarrhoea or pancreatitis in dogs that are susceptible


How much do I feed my new pup?

Generally intake is determined as a percentage of current body weight and so assumes that your pup falls within the healthy weight range. Check the chart below for guidance or discuss with your vet. A waist is nice and dogs should score in the middle (5 if score range is 1-9, OR 3 if score range is 1-5).




There are now heaps of online tools that can assist - I like the Dog Raw Feeding Calculator app that you can use with your smart phone. This App offers a good amount of customisation and recommendations adjust with age. Remember a puppy needs more food (as a percentage of current body weight) because of all that growing and activity. To some extent you will also feed to appetite - pups may appear hungry at feed time or even when the meal is consumed but within 20 min should have a full feeling which puts them into a resting (and digesting) slumber.


Pups eat 3 times a day till about 4-5 months
They usually need 4-6% of body weight depending on age but we recommend 6-8% for the first few months in the new home.
Adult dogs after 12 months of age need 2-3%


 I need help!
Smart phone Apps


  • "Raw Pet" or "Dog Raw Feeding Calculator" are Apps you can download on your phone to help calculate feeding amounts - both have pros and cons - I use them both
  • Call me - if I can't advise, I will refer you to someone who can  Tracey | 0410 584723
  • Go direct to a professional who supports a raw diet. Not all vets have a focus on the nitty-gritty of animal nutrition and it is convenient to offer a product they have at hand (large corporation kibble brand).
  • Keep it simple - there are plenty of prepared products available now that can be stored fresh or frozen - try Proudi, BARF, Leading Raw, Organic Paws, or dried raw  Ziwi Peak, Balanced Life, Frontier... available online or at pet stores
  • Feeding strategies - for the long term and how to feed raw on a budget.


What about dietary additives?

On your behalf I have consulted with Dr Renee O'Duhring and she advises that while supplements are not needed where a variety of meat, fish, egg, bone, a weekly serve of organ meat plus fruit and leafy vegetables form a raw diet, these may be of benefit to some dogs - seek advice.


  - Calcium for bone development

Calcium needs to be appropriately balanced with phosphorus and should be adequately obtained in the raw diet, especially if your dog is feed ground (or chewable) bones. These are sourced in chicken necks and chicken frames to some degree, raw fish frames and fish heads (ask your local fish monger) - one a week and other digestible soft bones (not the hard leg bones).
We dry our organic egg shells in the oven for 1 hour at low heat and grind - good for the chickens, keeps snails off the lettuces we grow and fine to add occasionally to a meal. If a supplement is needed this is recommended use Nature's Organic Calcium


Optional additives depending on what you feed and life stage of your dog - seek professional advice from your vet as to the advantages of including these in your dog's diet

  - Omega 3 fatty acids 

The correct balance of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids is important. A suitable supplement is in a gel form by Nordic Naturals.

Kelp is another source of fatty acids, vitamins and minerals - not advised if your dog has moist issues such as being susceptible to ear infections. We get our kelp in bulk from Tas Kelp.


  - Probiotics

We love Protexin and use it for our weaning puppies.

  - Turmeric - everyone is adding it 

This is a good anti-inflammatory but ensure the source is reliable as some supplies are tainted with arsenic and other heavy metals which you definitely don't want to feed your dog. Ask the supplier for details of their product chemical analysis certification and note that 'organic' does not automatically protect from heavy metal contamination.




But don't the biscuits clean my dog's teeth?

Not nearly as well as a meaty bone will. I also give carrot, sheep hearts or dehydrated treats like kangaroo tendons which do the job really well.
Remember dog biscuits = high carbs = sugars = dental decay.


Tip - if your dog has tartar on his teeth try a month of daily bone (not chicken necks that don't really require chewing but something more gutsy) and kangaroo tendons before heading for a surgical procedure - it will save you a packet as its often not covered by pet insurance. 
Of course severe inflammation or bad breath always warrants a vet consult as tartar is not the only cause of oral hygiene concerns. Please consult your vet when no improvement following introduction of daily chews is detected - we get our tendons from Clear Dog and like Oravet chews.

I can't always do Raw - what are my options?

Raw is not always convenient... a freeze or air dried alternative can be convenient to have on hand for those times when you are short of fridge space. Try these:
  • Frontier pets - free range, ethically sourced freeze dried range - Aussie
  • Ziwi Peak - air dried range from NZ
If you wish to feed dry (kibble) please review the information here Pet Food Reviews (Aus) and generally we recommend to choose the best food that fits your budget. Remember grain free does not mean carb free - grain free foods will be bulked up with other starches so still place demand on the endocrine system. We like Lifewise - an affordable 4.5 ⭐️ food


Hungry for more info? ... these resources will keep you busy

  • 12 min talk               Dr Renee O'Duhring - ideas of how and why but you don't have to DIY

There is loads more out there - don't get confused, come back to basics.
  1. http://www.feedpetsnotvets.com.au Raw food supplier
  1. https://www.ebookmall.com/author/tom-lonsdale Tom Lonsdale’s books


31 October 2016

1 Intro

A few gems before we start…

Dogs look at the world from a dog’s perspective. They belong to a pack that has a pack leader and a pecking order. Puppies are generally at the bottom of that pecking order within the pack. From this point they learn the way of the world.

When your puppy leaves our home to come to yours, he is moving to a new pack. Your puppy’s first job is to work out who is the pack leader and what rules apply in his new home. If the puppy can’t identify who the leader is, he will think it’s his job to take on the role of “Pack Leader” because what good is a pack with no leader? 

So…before your pup comes home and is faced with this decision, you will need work out what sort of pack you want to run.

For some great reading about pack leadership, dog training and obedience, try one of these titles:

Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr Sofia Yin and published by CattleDog Publishing, 2011
• The Dog Whisperer, John Richardson & Leslye Sharon Cole, New Holland, 2001



Contents…

These notes have been written for the novice puppy owner – if you have owned a dog before, there will be things in here that you already know. Please take the information that you need. Pups are referred to as “he” for ease of writing. 


  • Are you ready for your new pup?

  • Your Amalie Labradoodle puppy

  • What to expect in the first few days

  • Safety

  • Health care

  • Exercise and play

  • Feeding

  • Grooming

  • Sleeping

  • Training and obedience

  • Having fun with your Labradoodle



30 October 2016

2 Coming home

Are you ready for your new puppy?
There are some basic items that you will need for your new pup:
  • Heavy based feeding bowls (3 are good – one for food and two for water …one for inside and one for outside)
  • Some bedding that is not easily chewed (an old towel or two will do to begin with)
  • Puppy food - we have moved over to feeding RAW. Please chat to us about diet and we will make recommendations if you decide raw is not for you and your dog.
  • Some puppy toys and treats (Pre-loved kids soft toys are far more durable than puppy toys from the pet store - avoid hard plastic eyes and weighted beads in soft toys)
  • Cleaning up stuff: newspaper, paper towel or old cloths, white vinegar which neutralizes the ammonia in urine or better still, an enzymatic product such as "Wee Off" and ‘Spray and Wipe’ or equivalent
  • And maybe a puppy kennel or crate depending on where your puppy will sleep


Apart from the expected feeding, sleeping and grooming bits and pieces you will need a couple of other things will help your puppy adjust to its new environment.

Your Amalie Labradoodle puppy
Your puppy has been born and brought up in our home. Your pup has been well socialised, handled daily and has begun basic toilet, crate and obedience training. Puppies have been exposed to young children, other animals, car travel and basic household noise and have all spent time alone in their crate to help ease the transition to their new homes 
If using a crate begin using it straight away – you can feed your pup there or help him to get used to the crate by giving him a chew treat (like a pigs ear) or toy (soft toy or raggy bone) to settle with. Make it his “safe place” or den. Alternatively, a cardboard box can make a suitable temporary home.

The best toilet habits are created by being outside from day 1. He’s been outside for the last few weeks and has good habits, toileting far away from his sleeping place. If he can’t be outside, use a pet loo / newspaper by the door. Clean regularly and introduce him to it each time he wakes up and after eating.    


What to expect in the first few days
Despite the socialisation and training that your puppy has had, leaving the litter will challenge him and I would expect there to be unsettled periods in the first few days. Some things that may help are


  • keeping diet consistent – see Feeding 
  • being prepared for a few spills, puddles and accidents – see Toilet Training info sheet
  • being prepared for teething – see Safety and Exercise and Play
  • being able to help your pup adjust to being the only pup by ensuring time alone in short bursts from the very first day – see Sleeping and Crate Training info sheet (coming soon)
  • having some raw meaty bones, toys and training treats on hand – see Tucker Time
  • and if you have other pets – helping them work out who is who and what is what – "Lets Talk Dog"  is a good starting point.

  

29 October 2016

3 Safety


Safety
Your pup is an intelligent and inquisitive little thing. He has thought about teething on all manner of items in our household that are at puppy level - low to the ground. We have done our best to correct unwanted behaviours (like chewing on furniture, books, electrical cables, phone chargers, shoes etc. with a quick “Uh Uh” and providing a diversion with one of the appropriate chew toys or treats).

Car travel

If travelling in the car puppies and dogs must be secured. There are several alternatives - a harness or crate are the safest options for taking your puppy home.  Once your dog is older, a cargo barrier in a station wagon can be used to secure your dog. 

NEVER leave your pup in a car unattended. Even on a cool day, your car heats up quickly and dogs can die very quickly from heat stress.



Dogs and kids

From birth, your puppy has been handled daily by our family.  Our pups are also handled by and socialised with children. Regardless, your pup (and indeed all dogs) and young children should never be left unsupervised while they are together. It is important for children to know how to handle puppies securely and gently to prevent injury (to either the child or the puppy) and to learn to read dog body language cues that they are tired, not wanting company or are needing time out.

We recommend the information presented on the Liam Perk Foundation website.  





  • Teach your children to read the signs of a tired puppy that walks away to a quiet corner – the crate can be a good refuge for puppies with very young children 
  • A puppy that is annoyed will first retreat, then may growl
  • Never punish the growl... want to fin out why? The Liam Perk Foundation page explains this very well via the link above
  • Squealing is excitement and reward for a pup so when a child gives a normal response to something they don't like (puppy scratching or nipping) the pup's normal though response is "that got a response - I should do that again!" There are good teaching resources for kids here "Be a Tree"... a safe response for kids who feel threatened or anxious around dogs - even small puppies.


The growl is an important communication tool for a dog - if ignored, the may escalate his communication to get his message across. This may be a nip or bite. Parents will notice the nip when the child protests but may have missed the other warning signals the puppy tried to give. Bite prevention tips are discussed here. Even a Labradoodle, renowned for their sociable temperament can be pushed to his limits.



Puppy proofing
To keep your pup safe, you either need to “puppy proof” your pup’s new environment or consistently correct unwanted behaviours. Some things to think of (both dangers and things that might cause heart ache if chewed) include:


Inside

  • Your favourite shoes and other footwear - thongs are cheap but it is annoying when one is destroyed…so never let them chew them
  • Books – the spine is great for teething but teeth marks make books and magazines hard to read
  • TV, electrical and computer cables – put them up out of reach or unplug when not in use (saves energy too!)
  • Toilet – put the lid down and keep toilet paper rolled up (you’ve seen the Kleenex advert on TV with a paper trail through the house)
  • Cords from blinds – entertaining but pets can also get tangled in them
  • Electrical cords if pulled will lead to accidental breakages or injury (eg from a lamp, kettle, toaster…)
  • Poisons, chemicals, medicines, disinfectants (eg Dettol) and cleaning products including some natural oil based products such as Tea-Tree oil – keep them out of reach
  • Insecticides, sprays, mouse, ant and cockroach baits or traps – ensure these are all inaccessible and don’t use them if you don’t need to
  • Some foods are poisonous  - never feed your pup or adult dog these foods: chocolate, onions, grapes, sultanas, kernels of stone fruit, apple core pips macadamia nuts, ham and ham bones (including bacon)
  • Xylitol found in some peanut butter, packet cake mix, chewing gum and toothpaste (and other human foods) is TOXIC to dogs. Ingestion is a medical emergency

Outside

  • Garden plants – they are entertaining to chew because they often move so either fence them off, supervise and teach your pup not to chew and dig (this will take time) provide alternatives (you may even set up a designated digging place)
  •  Know what plants are poisonous to pets RSPCA Guide to Toxic Plants
  • Cane toads are poisonous - don't let your pup chew or lick them and know how to administer first aid
  • Weed killers, snail bait and fertilisers (including natural products like blood and bone or Dynamic Lifter) can be toxic to your pup
  • Buckets for animal drinking water or just buckets that might fill with rainwater can be potential drowning spots as a pup will go in head first and be unable to turn around
  • Stairs – install gates or mesh wire to prevent balcony or stairwell spills
  • Swimming pool fence – can your puppy get under it… you’d be amazed? Also perimeter security (fences) - check there are no little escape hatches

28 October 2016

4 Health Care

Health care

Vaccinations

During pregnancy and through mother’s milk, puppies receive temporary protection from disease via maternal antibodies. These same antibodies can interfere with the development of a pup’s own immune response to vaccination so it is a fine balance providing good nutrition and promoting a good post vaccination immunity development. We often wean our puppies late at Amalie (between 6-8 weeks) and we recommended a course of three vaccinations be given at 7 11-12 and at least 14 -16 weeks. 

By delaying the vaccination schedule until at least 14 weeks, puppies receive the nutritional benefits of mother’s milk and are a little older when the final vaccination is given allowing more time for the pup to clear maternal antibodies from his system. He will also be more physiologically mature so at 14 weeks, he has a greater opportunity to develop adequate protection from the diseases covered in the vaccination protocol. 

At 7 weeks, we use the C3 vaccine protecting against Canine Hepatitis, Distemper and Parvovirus - international pups may require additional vaccinations. Canine cough is covered in the 2nd vaccination given once the puppy goes home. Our specialist veterinary advice recommends a final C3 vaccination at 14-16 weeks to ensure adequate protection against Parvovirus as per the WSAVA guidelines regardless of manufacturer guidelines. Your pup will then need an annual booster and health check.

Your vaccination certificate will be available when you collect your pup. Socialisation is important for you pup and needs to be done thoughtfully.  Don't go to the dog park or heavily dog populated areas but places that are relatively safe and support socialisation in the critical window are the beach (go at a time of day when its not super busy), car rides, visit a cafe with your pup on your lap / a mat by your feet, watch children play at the park....  Puppy pre-school is also safe - for more information  please discuss with your vet. The first 8 weeks of your puppy at home is a critical socialisation period. 




Intestinal parasites (worms)

All puppies are susceptible to intestinal worm (roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, hydatid tapeworms and flea tapeworms). These worms can infect both dogs and humans so to protect both your dog and your family, it is essential to provide regular worm treatment for your puppy.
Dogs pick up worms from their environment and eggs can last in the soil for up to 5 years. You can reduce your pet’s exposure to worms by
·         keeping kennels and sleeping areas clean
·         treating your dog for fleas
·         washing your hands after playing with your dog and teach your dog that it is wrong to lick you (especially on the face)
·         cleaning up after your dog – on your walks always carry a dog-poo bag

Signs of worms in dogs include diarrhoea, weight loss, tail skidding (your dog rubs his tail on the ground) and a poor dull coat.


Your pup has been wormed every 2 weeks from birth with Drontal and then given Sentinel Spectrum at some stage between 6-8 weeks. We will advise when the next dose is to be given – please discuss a protocol for regular treatment with your vet – there are MANY preparations and combination treatments available.



Fleas and ticks


There are many products on the market to treat fleas and ticks. Some “all in one” preparations will also treat other parasites (eg heart and intestinal worms). There are new longterm products available – again, please discuss with your vet.


Remember that a paralysis tick can seriously injure and even kill your pet – check him regularly if you live in or travel through an area known to be host to this parasite. Frontline have an excellent video that all family members should watch if you live or travel in areas of Australia that have paralysis ticks (Eastern seaboard). 

Frontline is one of many products that help prevent ticks and they have good information on their website. Speak to your vet about what is best to use. Regardless of what chemical prevention you use, a daily tick check is recommended. See how here...

How to check for ticks

Heart Worm

Heartworm is present in most parts of Australia and is transmitted to your pet by mosquitoes. In the unprotected dog, the worm develops and lives in the chamber of the heart. Your dog becomes lethargic and can die. The good news is that heartworm is easily prevented by regular medication. This can either be given monthly or when your pup is old enough, with a yearly injection. 

As puppies grow they need to have their heartworm medication dose altered. I give oral medication for the first year and then have an annual vet check and obtain vaccinations for all preventable diseases in the one visit.