Dogs look at the world from a dog’s
perspective. They belong to a pack that has a pack leader and a pecking order.
Puppies are generally at the bottom of that pecking order within the pack. From
this point they learn the way of the world.
When your puppy leaves our home to come to
yours, he is moving to a new pack. Your puppy’s first job is to work out who is
the pack leader and what rules apply in his new home. If the puppy can’t identify who the
leader is, he will think it’s his job to take on the role of “Pack
Leader” because what good is a pack with no leader?
So…before your pup comes
home and is faced with this decision, you will need work out what sort of pack
you want to run.
For some great reading about pack
leadership, dog training and obedience, try one of these titles:
• Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right by Dr Sofia Yin and published by CattleDog Publishing, 2011 • The Dog Whisperer, John Richardson & Leslye Sharon Cole, New Holland, 2001
Contents…
These notes have been written for the novice puppy owner – if you have owned a dog before, there will be things in here that you already know. Please take the information that you need. Pups are referred to as “he” for ease of writing.
There are some basic items that you will
need for your new pup:
Heavy
based feeding bowls (3 are good – one for food and two for water …one for
inside and one for outside)
Some
bedding that is not easily chewed (an old towel or two will do to begin
with)
Puppy
food - we have moved over to feeding RAW. Please chat to us about diet and we will make recommendations if you decide raw is not for you and your dog.
Some
puppy toys and treats (Pre-loved kids soft toys are far more durable than puppy toys from the pet store - avoid hard plastic eyes and weighted beads in soft toys)
Cleaning
up stuff: newspaper, paper towel or old cloths, white vinegar which neutralizes the ammonia in urine or better still, an enzymatic product such as "Wee Off" and ‘Spray and Wipe’ or equivalent
And maybe
a puppy kennel or crate depending on where your puppy will sleep
Apart from the expected feeding, sleeping
and grooming bits and pieces you will need a couple of other things will help
your puppy adjust to its new environment.
Your Amalie Labradoodle puppy Your
puppy has been born and brought up in our home. Your pup has been well
socialised, handled daily and has begun basic toilet, crate and obedience
training. Puppies have been exposed to young children, other animals, car
travel and basic household noise and have all spent time alone in their crate
to help ease the transition to their new homes
If using a crate begin using it straight away – you can feed your pup there or help him to get used to the crate by giving him a chew treat (like a pigs ear) or toy (soft toy or raggy bone) to settle with. Make it his “safe place” or den. Alternatively, a cardboard box can make a suitable temporary home.
The
best toilet habits are created by being outside from day 1. He’s been outside
for the last few weeks and has good habits, toileting far away from his
sleeping place. If he can’t be outside, use a pet loo / newspaper by the door. Clean
regularly and introduce him to it each time he wakes up and after eating.
What to expect in the first few days
Despite the socialisation and training that your puppy has had, leaving the litter will challenge him and I would expect there to be unsettled periods in the first few days. Some things that may help are
keeping diet consistent – see Feeding
being prepared for a few spills, puddles and accidents – see Toilet Training info sheet
being prepared for teething – see Safety and Exercise and Play
being able to help your pup adjust to being the only pup by ensuring time alone in short bursts from the very first day – see Sleeping and Crate Training info sheet (coming soon)
having some raw meaty bones, toys and training treats on hand – see Tucker Time
and if you have other pets – helping them work out who is who and what is what – "Lets Talk Dog" is a good starting point.
Your pup is an intelligent and inquisitive
little thing. He has thought about teething on all manner of items in our
household that are at puppy level - low to the ground. We have done our best
to correct unwanted behaviours (like chewing on furniture, books, electrical
cables, phone chargers, shoes etc. with a quick “Uh Uh” and providing a
diversion with one of the appropriate chew toys or treats).
Car travel If travelling in the car puppies and dogs must be secured. There are several alternatives - a harness or crate are the safest options for taking your puppy home. Once your dog is older, a cargo barrier in a station wagon can be used to secure your dog.
NEVER leave your pup in a car unattended. Even on a cool day, your car heats up quickly and dogs can die very quickly from heat stress. Dogs and kids
From birth, your puppy has been handled daily by our family. Our pups are also handled by and socialised
with children. Regardless, your pup (and indeed all dogs) and young children should never be left unsupervised
while they are together. It is important for children to know how to handle
puppies securely and gently to prevent injury (to either the child or the
puppy) and to learn to read dog body language cues that they are tired, not wanting company or are needing time out. We recommend the information presented on the Liam Perk Foundation website.
Teach your children to read the signs of a
tired puppy that walks away to a quiet corner – the crate can be a good refuge
for puppies with very young children
A puppy that is annoyed will first
retreat, then may growl
Never punish the growl... want to fin out why? The Liam Perk Foundation page explains this very well via the link above
Squealing is excitement and reward for a pup so when a child gives a normal response to something they don't like (puppy scratching or nipping) the pup's normal though response is "that got a response - I should do that again!" There are good teaching resources for kids here "Be a Tree"... a safe response for kids who feel threatened or anxious around dogs - even small puppies.
The growl is an important communication tool for a dog - if ignored, the may escalate his communication to get his message
across. This may be a nip or bite. Parents will notice the nip when the child protests but
may have missed the other warning signals the puppy tried to give. Bite prevention tips are discussed here. Even a Labradoodle, renowned for their sociable temperament can be pushed to his limits.
Puppy proofing To keep your pup safe, you either need to “puppy proof” your pup’s new environment or consistently correct unwanted behaviours. Some things to think of (both dangers and things that might cause heart ache if chewed) include:
Inside
Your favourite shoes and other footwear - thongs are cheap but
it is annoying when one is destroyed…so never let them chew them
Books – the spine is great for teething but teeth marks make
books and magazines hard to read
TV, electrical and computer cables – put them up out of reach
or unplug when not in use (saves energy too!)
Toilet – put the lid down and keep toilet paper rolled up
(you’ve seen the Kleenex advert on TV with a paper trail through the
house)
Cords from blinds – entertaining but pets can also get tangled
in them
Electrical cords if pulled will lead to accidental breakages or
injury (eg from a lamp, kettle, toaster…)
Poisons, chemicals, medicines, disinfectants (eg Dettol) and
cleaning products including some natural oil based products such as
Tea-Tree oil – keep them out of reach
Insecticides, sprays, mouse, ant and cockroach baits or traps –
ensure these are all inaccessible and don’t use them if you don’t need to
Some foods are
poisonous - never feed your pup or adult
dog these foods: chocolate, onions, grapes, sultanas, kernels of stone fruit,
apple core pips macadamia nuts, ham and ham bones (including bacon)
Xylitol found in some peanut butter, packet cake mix, chewing gum and toothpaste (and other human foods) is TOXIC to dogs. Ingestion is a medical emergency
Outside
Garden plants – they are entertaining to
chew because they often move so either fence them off, supervise and teach your pup not to chew and dig (this will
take time) provide alternatives (you may even set up a designated digging
place)
Cane toads are poisonous - don't let your pup chew or lick them and know how to administer first aid
Weed killers, snail bait and fertilisers (including natural
products like blood and bone or Dynamic Lifter) can be toxic to your pup
Buckets for animal drinking water or just buckets that might
fill with rainwater can be potential drowning spots as a pup will go in
head first and be unable to turn around
Stairs – install gates or mesh wire to prevent balcony or stairwell
spills
Swimming pool fence – can your puppy get under it… you’d be
amazed? Also perimeter security (fences) - check there are no little escape hatches
During pregnancy and through mother’s milk, puppies receive temporary protection from disease via maternal antibodies. These same antibodies can interfere with the development of a pup’s own immune response to vaccination so it is a fine balance providing good nutrition and promoting a good post vaccination immunity development. We often wean our puppies late at Amalie (between 6-8 weeks) and we recommended a course of three vaccinations be given at 7 11-12 and at least 14 -16 weeks. By delaying the vaccination schedule until at least 14 weeks, puppies receive the nutritional benefits of mother’s milk and are a little older when the final vaccination is given allowing more time for the pup to clear maternal antibodies from his system. He will also be more physiologically mature so at 14 weeks, he has a greater opportunity to develop adequate protection from the diseases covered in the vaccination protocol.
At 7 weeks, we use the C3 vaccine protecting against Canine Hepatitis, Distemper and Parvovirus - international pups may require additional vaccinations. Canine cough is covered in the 2nd vaccination given once the puppy goes home. Our specialist veterinary advice recommends a final C3 vaccination at 14-16 weeks to ensure adequate protection against Parvovirus as per the WSAVA guidelines regardless of manufacturer guidelines. Your pup will then need an annual booster and health check.
Your vaccination certificate will be available when you collect your pup. Socialisation is important for you pup and needs to be done thoughtfully. Don't go to the dog park or heavily dog populated areas but places that are relatively safe and support socialisation in the critical window are the beach (go at a time of day when its not super busy), car rides, visit a cafe with your pup on your lap / a mat by your feet, watch children play at the park.... Puppy pre-school is also safe - for more information please discuss with your vet. The first 8 weeks of your puppy at home is a critical socialisation period.
Intestinal parasites (worms)
All puppies are susceptible to intestinal
worm (roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, hydatid tapeworms and flea tapeworms).
These worms can infect both dogs and humans so to protect both your dog and
your family, it is essential to provide regular worm treatment for your puppy.
Dogs pick up worms from their environment
and eggs can last in the soil for up to 5 years. You can reduce your pet’s
exposure to worms by
·keeping kennels and sleeping
areas clean
·treating your dog for fleas
·washing your hands after
playing with your dog and teach your dog that it is wrong to lick you
(especially on the face)
·cleaning up after your dog – on
your walks always carry a dog-poo bag
Signs of worms in dogs include diarrhoea,
weight loss, tail skidding (your dog rubs his tail on the ground) and a poor
dull coat.
Your
pup has been wormed every 2 weeks from birth with Drontal and then given
Sentinel Spectrum at some stage between 6-8 weeks. We will advise when the next
dose is to be given – please discuss a protocol for regular treatment with your
vet – there are MANY preparations and combination treatments available.
Fleas and ticks
There are many products on the market to
treat fleas and ticks. Some “all in one” preparations will also treat other
parasites (eg heart and intestinal worms). There are new longterm products
available – again, please discuss with your vet.
Remember that a paralysis tick can
seriously injure and even kill your pet – check him regularly if you live in or
travel through an area known to be host to this parasite. Frontline have an
excellent video that all family members should watch if you live or travel in
areas of Australia that have paralysis ticks (Eastern seaboard). Frontline is one of many products that help prevent ticks and they have good information on their website. Speak to your vet about what is best to use. Regardless of what chemical prevention you use, a daily tick check is recommended. See how here...
Heartworm is present in most parts of
Australia and is transmitted to your pet by mosquitoes. In the unprotected dog,
the worm develops and lives in the chamber of the heart. Your dog becomes
lethargic and can die. The good news is that heartworm is easily prevented by
regular medication. This can either be given monthly or when your pup is old
enough, with a yearly injection.
As puppies grow they need to have their
heartworm medication dose altered. I give oral medication for the first year
and then have an annual vet check and obtain vaccinations for all preventable
diseases in the one visit.
Labradoodles are very sociable and love
human contact. Puppies just love to have fun but like young children, they
have a time limit before they ‘crash’. Very young pups generally play for 15-20
mins before they will retreat to a quiet place for a nap. As discussed earlier
– supervise children and help them to learn about your puppy’s routine.
Puppies will need some toys to chew and
teethe on to prevent them from chewing and teething on your stuff. You can also fill “Kong” toys (green and white toy pictured) with goodies
that reward your puppy.
Exercise
Your puppy will get enough exercise
initially through play. Later – when your vaccination schedule is complete,
commence walking your puppy regularly before a meal. If you intend to use the
dog park, socialise your dog gradually so he has both manners with other dogs
and develops social confidence. If you notice submissive behaviour such as
piddling that then continues at home e.g. when the puppy greets the pack leader –
leave the dog park to a later stage.
It will be helpful if you introduce your
puppy to using a collar and lead before this time so practice in the back yard.
Never pull or drag the puppy along with the lead – you’ll have more success if
you coax him along with your voice “pup, pup, pup…” or a dog treat.
Bones and joints and specifically…Hip Care
Your pup’s parents both have had their hips and elbows radiologically examined as part of Amalie’s commitment to breeding canine companions with outstanding health qualities. Pups have been introduced to gentle play to keep puppy joints healthy and accident free. Now it’s your turn…
There are some do’s and don’ts that are thought to make a difference to your dogs ongoing health such as
Don’t encourage your puppy to chase you, especially on slippery floors – this information is probably directed at kids. Discourage rough play.
Discourage him from bounding up and down stairs – this will mean you will have to carry him up and down for a while.
Discourage jumping on and off furniture, the back of the car and hold off doing agility training until he is about 1 year of age.
Do feed him a balanced diet and ensure he doesn’t develop a weight problem! Give healthy treats and consider treat intake when giving the evening meal. If you’ve done heaps of training and given rewards, make the meal smaller.
Q: Why do we bother spending extra money on raw and premium foods? A: We want a long and healthy life for our pets and believe this can make a difference! We have weaned our pups onto a raw diet of meat (no preservatives and sourced from the pet shop - not the supermarket or butcher), meaty bones and the occasional carrot or broccoli stalk. We have loved the enthusiasm for meal time and the easy transition from mother's milk (no loose or stinky poo and small amounts indicating that it is highly digestible). We will discuss feeding with you before you take your pup home so that you can be prepared. Perviously we weaned to a high quality dry commercial dog food and certainly, this is an option for your puppy but we are convinced of the many health benefits of a species and biologically appropriate food so recommend it for your puppy. We encourage you to speak with your vet / research online in order to make an informed choice regarding your puppy's diet. In the same way as a formulated kibble adjusts to growing needs, raw diet too needs to adjust with weight and age. For those not wanting to feed raw - there are a range of products to suit dogs of various ages
and sizes, and that it provide balanced nutrition. With any dietary change, please transition gradually to avoid tummy troubles.
To
fit in with a working family schedule, I have been feeding the puppies at flexible times early in
the morning and then mid afternoon (approx 3-4pm) and then again later in the
evening after we’ve had our evening meal.
You can reduce his meals to twice daily at about 4 months of age.
Generally we don’t let our dogs graze – if
they’re not interested in food within 10 minutes of offering it then the food is
removed and offered at later stage. It is OK for your dog to have a base diet
of dry food as long as there is always plenty of fresh water available but they
love fresh food treats too though – try carrots!
Remember the rule of the pack – the lowest
members are fed last, reinforcing your leadership within the pack. You can even
supervise young children to feed your dog, which helps to set this pecking
order in the dog’s mind with regard to the youngest member of your household.
If you don’t want your dog to beg for food,
don’t feed him from the table. Tid-bits from your plate should be given in
their bowl, away from the table…. just make sure they are not on the danger
list (chocolate, onion, grapes and bacon!). You can offer raw fruit and veg –
Jezzie loves carrots, apples, broccoli, celery, mango and sometimes bananas.
Treats
Treats can be given for many reasons – as
food rewards when training, to entertain or provide mental stimulation when you
go out or just because. Giving a stuffed Kong toy while you’re at work can help
to dissuade destructive behaviours such as barking, digging, chewing as they
challenge him and keep his mind stimulated in a constructive way. There are now a range of timed food dispensers of novelty challenges for kibble distribution. Our favourite is the "bob-a-lot". The treats we have included in your take home pack are all natural, free of preservatives or sugars and come from ClearDog. Ordering online is simple and their service is exceptional. Kangaroo tendons, bully stick, shark cartilage (all great for keeping teeth clean), green lipped mussels and lamb puff.
Kong recipe!
Try Google “Kong stuffing recipe”
Some other ideas
frozen chicken wings turkey neck or meaty bones (all bones to be uncooked please)
frozen disposable drink bottle filled with chicken stock – pierce a hole in the lid for an all day dog ice-block search - ensure lid is on tight ...but if your dog is super destructive - give this one a miss
frozen dish of water with food treats inside
raw fruit and veg... apple wedges, carrots or frozen banana for teething
commercially available pigs ears, cow hoof (last a long time), Greenies (expensive but dog love them) and lamb chews (can get a bit smelly).
